Basic wardrobe for men: this is how you build a stylish wardrobe that really works

A good one basic wardrobe for men doesn't have to be big. In fact, the strongest wardrobes often consist of a relatively limited number of clothing items that combine well, are comfortable and match how you really live.

At EcoGents we see the difference every day between “having a lot of clothes” and “being able to dress well”. The first mainly requires space. The second requires a few strong choices: a good jacket, shirts that really fit, nice trousers, good denim, knitwear and shoes that allow you to go in multiple directions.

This guide will help you build a men's wardrobe that's classic enough to last for years, but won't be boring. No fixed uniform rules and no list that every man must exactly comply with. A practical basis to which you can add character later.

Don't start with trends, but with your daily life

The best wardrobe is the wardrobe you actually use. If you work in the office for five days, you need different proportions than someone who mainly dresses casually. If you regularly go to weddings, dinners or business meetings, a suit is more important. If you work a lot standing or walking, comfort and shoes are more important.

So first ask yourself: what do I dress for in an average month? Work, leisure, dinners, occasions, holidays and seasons together provide a much better starting point than a fashion trend.

1. A good jacket: the fastest way to make an outfit stronger

If we had to point out one piece of clothing that immediately makes a men's wardrobe more versatile, it would be a loose one jacket.

For a first copy, dark blue, gray or a calm brown shade often works best. You can wear it with trousers, but just as well with jeans. A plain or subtly mixed jacket is easier to combine than a very pronounced check.

Fit is more important than brand. The shoulders should fall well and the jacket should close without strong wrinkles. Sleeve and back length are often easier to adjust than an ill-fitting shoulder.

Also read our guide how tight can a jacket fit? and how to combine a jacket with jeans.

2. Shirts: Better five useful ones than fifteen that you never choose

Shirts are the heart of the wardrobe for many men. A good base can, for example, consist of white, light blue, a fine stripe, a calm check and one shirt with more character.

There doesn't have to be a strict schedule behind it. The goal is for you to have different levels of cleanliness. A white or light blue shirt can be worn under a suit, while a button-down or check works better with jeans, corduroy or knitwear.

Check out our shirts, or read first the difference between slim fit, regular fit and loose fit.

3. A good pair of trousers next to your jeans

Many men have several pairs of jeans, but hardly any nice trousers that can be worn separately. That's a shame, because gray, dark blue, brown or beige trousers make a huge number of combinations possible.

With a shirt and jacket the outfit becomes neat. With knitwear and loafers it becomes softer and more casual. With a polo or quarter-zip you are somewhere between formal and relaxed.

With second-hand trousers, waist, crotch and thigh are more important than the number on the label. Therefore, do not just look at the size, but also at real dimensions. Read our guide second-hand trousers for men.

4. Dark jeans as a casual foundation

Dark jeans without exaggerated washes are one of the easiest pants to combine. With sneakers and knitwear he is casual; With a shirt, leather shoes and jacket it immediately becomes neater.

Jeans don't have to be tight to look neat. A straight or slightly tapered fit can actually last longer in terms of style and be more comfortable.

You can find more about this in our guide to second hand jeans for men.

5. Knitwear: the layer that completes a wardrobe

A sweater, spencer, polo sweater or quarter-zip adds warmth and structure. For a basic wardrobe, calm colors such as navy, gray, cream, dark green and burgundy are particularly useful.

A thin sweater can be worn over a shirt and under a jacket or jacket. A spencer gives the same principle more character. A quarter-zip is a bit sportier but can still look very smart with a shirt and trousers.

View sweaters and knitwear, spencers and slipovers or read how to wear a spencer modern.

6. A jacket that works over the rest of your wardrobe

A good outdoor jacket should not only be beautiful in itself, but also have room for what you wear underneath.

For a classic wardrobe, a trench coat, neat wool coat or leather jacket are strong options. Which one is best depends on your style. A trench coat is easier to wear for business; a leather jacket gives more character; a wool coat can be very versatile.

If you are looking for a leather jacket, pay particular attention to fit, zippers, seams, lining and wear. See also second hand leather jacket men and vintage trench coat men.

7. A suit for moments when combining separately is not enough

Not every man wears a suit every week, but for weddings, funerals, formal dinners, business meetings and other occasions it is nice to have a suit that fits well.

For a first suit, dark blue and medium gray are usually the easiest to combine. Choose a well-fitting and solid suit rather than a striking model that only works for one occasion.

Moreover, a suit jacket is not automatically the same as a separate jacket. Those who understand that distinction well will make fewer bad purchases. Read jacket or blazer: what's the difference? and second-hand suit men.

8. Shoes determine how formal the same clothes feel

Using the same pants and shirt, you can create two completely different outfits just by changing shoes.

A pair of brown or black leather shoes, loafers or dress lace-ups covers many occasions. In addition, a quiet casual shoe can be useful for more informal combinations.

Don't choose shoes based solely on appearance. If you have to be able to stand or walk on it all day, comfort is just as important.

9. Ties: not an everyday requirement, but a powerful option

A tie no longer has to be standard with every shirt, but that is precisely why it can add a lot of character when you use it consciously.

A plain dark blue, burgundy red or green tie will go a long way. You can then expand with stripes, paisley or vintage prints.

Pay attention to proportion: a very wide vintage tie works differently with a jacket than a narrow modern one. Read how a tie should fit and how to combine color and pattern.

10. A waistcoat is not an absolute basic, but it is typical of a men's room

A waistcoat is not a necessary basic piece of clothing for every man. Still, it deserves a place in this guide because it's one of the easiest ways to make an outfit more personal.

A quiet tweed, wool or cotton waistcoat can be worn over a shirt with jeans or trousers. You can wear it under a jacket, but also separately. Anyone who already has a classic wardrobe in order will suddenly get many extra combinations with one good waistcoat.

Check out our waistcoats or read 7 ways to combine a men's vest.

Which colors make a good base?

You don't have to only wear neutral colors. A quiet base only makes it easier to add more striking pieces.

A useful palette for many men consists of dark blue, gray, white, light blue, beige, brown, olive and cream. Bordeaux and dark green are good accent colors.

The advantage of such a basis is that almost everything combines with each other. For example, a navy jacket works with gray trousers, denim, beige and corduroy. A light blue shirt goes with almost everything.

Build the foundation first, then add character

Only when the basics work does it become fun to continue: a 70s shirt, Harris Tweed jacket, striking waistcoat, vintage tie, corduroy trousers or special leather jacket.

That is also how we look at style at EcoGents. Not everyone has to look like they came from the same lookbook. The basics ensure that you are dressed; the special pieces ensure that it becomes yours.

For more pronounced combinations you can continue with combine vintage men's clothing or our new guide to preppy men's style.

How many clothes do you really need?

There is no universal number for that. Someone who wears a shirt every day needs more shirts than someone who only wears them on weekends. The same goes for suits, jackets and shoes.

A better rule is: every piece of clothing in your basic wardrobe should allow for multiple combinations. If a new piece only works with one specific pair of pants and one specific shoe, it is less suitable as a base.

Second-hand is suitable for building such a wardrobe

A second-hand wardrobe does not have to be completely vintage. At EcoGents we prefer to look at the garment itself: fit, quality, wearability and character.

This allows you to hang a modern shirt next to an older tweed jacket, combine classic trousers with a vintage tie and wear a recent quarter-zip with an older button-down shirt. The wardrobe does not have to come from one brand, one year or one style period.

The EcoGents order if you start from scratch

If your wardrobe currently consists mainly of separate purchases, we would use approximately this order:

1. first make sure you have one pair of well-fitting dark jeans and one pair of smart trousers;
2. add two or three easy-to-match shirts;
3. find one good loose jacket;
4. add knitwear for layering and seasons;
5. make sure you have good shoes;
6. add a jacket that works with multiple outfits;
7. arrange a good costume if you need it regularly;
8. then add character with waistcoats, ties, prints, tweed and special vintage pieces.

Not everything has to be done at the same time. A wardrobe often improves when you build it up slowly and only buy what really adds something.

A basic wardrobe for men at EcoGents

In Tilburg's Herenkamer there are thousands of second-hand and vintage men's pieces, sorted as much as possible by size and category. This means you can not only search for one item, but try different combinations right next to each other.

You can start at one jacket, shirt, trousers or knitwear and build from there.

If you have any doubts about fit or combinations, we would rather help you in the store with a wardrobe that you will actually wear than with as many individual purchases as possible. That is ultimately what a good basic wardrobe is all about.