Dress codes for men: what do you wear with casual, cocktail, black tie and more?

Which clothing belongs to which dress code? An invitation with 'smart casual', 'cocktail' or 'black tie' may feel vague, but the differences are easy to explain. The most important rule: take the dress code mentioned seriously and ask the organizer for an explanation if an invitation is unclear.

Casual

Casual means relaxed, but not automatically sloppy. Jeans, chinos, polo, shirt, knitwear and smart sneakers can all fit.

For a party, good dark jeans with a shirt or polo sweater usually work better than sportswear or an old T-shirt.

Smart casual

Smart casual is somewhere between neat and relaxed. One jacket with chinos or neat jeans is a classic solution. You can wear a shirt, polo or nice sweater underneath.

A tie is usually not necessary. The combination should look neat without making you look like you came straight from a formal meeting.

Business casual

Business casual varies by company and industry. For men, smart trousers or chinos with a shirt are a safe basis. A jacket is possible, but a full suit is often not necessary.

Sneakers are fine in some organizations and not in others. So also look at the context of the event.

Tenue de ville

Tenue de ville traditionally means neat city clothes. For men, a dark or medium-dark suit is usually expected with a shirt, dress shoes and usually a tie.

It is more formal than smart casual, but less ceremonial than black tie.

Cocktail attire

For men, cocktail usually means a dark suit or a very smart combination, depending on location and invitation. A good shirt and nice leather shoes are part of this; a tie is often appropriate, but the exact design can be more modern or looser.

One second hand costume can work great for this when the fit is right.

Black tie

Black tie traditionally calls for a tuxedo: black or very dark dinner jacket and trousers, white formal shirt, black bow tie and matching dress shoes.

A regular dark suit is not the same as a tuxedo. If the organizer explicitly requests black tie, it is wise to respect that distinction.

Black tie optional

This indicates to the organizer that a tuxedo is welcome, but that a dark formal suit may also be acceptable. With a regular suit, wear a neat white shirt and dress shoes.

White tie

White tie is the most formal classic evening code. For men, this traditionally includes a dress suit with a white Marcella vest, formal white shirt and white bow tie.

This dress code is much less common than black tie. If you see him at an invitation, don't improvise with an ordinary costume.

Wedding without a clear dress code

If there is no code, look at time, location and type of wedding. A dark blue or gray suit is versatile. For a more informal summer wedding, a lighter suit or combination may be appropriate.

If in doubt, ask the bridal couple or master of ceremonies. That's better than assuming that 'festive' means the same thing to everyone.

Tie or no tie?

With smart casual you can usually leave it out. For uniform de ville, cocktail and formal weddings, a tie be the right step up.

Also read how should a tie fit?.

Waistcoat with a party outfit

One waistcoat can make a suit more formal or give a loose combination character. With a three-piece suit, the waistcoat belongs to the same fabric; with smart casual it may differ.

Pay attention to length and fit. The waistcoat should cover the waistband of the trousers.

Jacket with jeans: when is it possible?

For smart casual or an informal party, a jacket with jeans can be strong. With cocktails or formal dress codes, denim quickly becomes too casual.

Read for this Can jeans be worn under a jacket?.

Common mistakes with dress codes

• Improvising too literally: black tie is not 'something black with a tie'.
• Ignore the location: beach, city hotel and estate require different practical choices.
• Just looking at color: cut and type of garment are just as important.
• Wearing new shoes for the first time that evening: adjust comfort first.
• If in doubt, don't ask: the organizer can often provide clarity in one message.

Second-hand clothing for a dress code

Second-hand is suitable for occasions where you are looking for something specific. A suit, jacket, waistcoat or tie does not have to be new to be worn formally correctly.

Be sure to check fit and condition and have minor adjustments made where necessary.

Put together a party outfit at EcoGents

At EcoGents you can costumes, jackets, waistcoats, shirts and ties together. In the physical store it is easy to try on a complete outfit side by side and see if the formality is correct.

Are you specifically going to a 70s party? Then read what do you wear to a 70's theme party?.