Wearing a waistcoat in spring, summer, autumn and winter: this is how you combine it

Can you wear a waistcoat all year round? Yes. The waistcoat is strong because it can work as an extra layer without immediately becoming as heavy as a jacket or thick vest. The way you wear it changes per season. In spring and summer it's mainly about light combinations; in autumn and winter it's all about layers, texture and warmer colours.

Waistcoat in spring

In spring, a waistcoat is ideal as an intermediate layer. The temperature often changes during the day, so a shirt with a waistcoat provides more flexibility than a heavy jacket or sweater.

Calm colors such as beige, light gray, blue and soft earth tones work easily. Combine a plain waistcoat with a shirt and chinos or jeans. If you want more character, choose a checked or vintage waistcoat over a simple shirt.

Which layer do you wear under a waistcoat in the spring?

A shirt remains the most logical basis. An oxford or casual shirt makes the look relaxed, while a smoother shirt makes it dressier. On colder days, a thin long sleeve or fine knit can also work, as long as the waistcoat still closes neatly.

You can find more combinations in what do you wear under a waistcoat?.

Waistcoat in the summer

A waistcoat is also possible in the summer, but choose comfort. A heavily lined model can quickly become too warm. Therefore, look at the construction, thickness and material stated on the label instead of just the appearance.

A waistcoat over a shirt with rolled up sleeves gives a dressy look without a jacket. This can work well, especially at a wedding, dinner or other occasion where you want to be neat but do not want to wear a full suit.

Open or closed in warm weather?

You can feel free to wear the waistcoat open with a casual outfit. That makes the combination lighter and less formal. For a formal occasion or three-piece suit it should usually be closed.

Also read can you wear a waistcoat open?.

Waistcoat in the fall

Autumn is perhaps the strongest season for a waistcoat. Checks, brown, green, burgundy, gray and other deep colors go well with the rest of a fall wardrobe. A waistcoat also adds texture without giving you much extra volume.

Combine it with a flannel or sturdy cotton shirt, corduroy trousers or dark jeans. A tweed or structured jacket over it makes the combination even more classic.

Waistcoat in winter

In winter, a waistcoat mainly works as a layer. A fine knit sweater or turtleneck underneath can be good, as long as it is not too thick. A heavy waistcoat over a thick sweater can quickly become uncomfortable and disrupt the fit.

Under a winter coat or trench coat, a waistcoat can provide extra warmth around the torso without making the arms thicker.

How do you choose the right fit per season?

Fit on a waistcoat with approximately the same layer that you want to wear underneath it later. A waistcoat that fits perfectly over a thin shirt can become too tight over a winter sweater.

The buttons should not pull and the front should cover the waistband of your pants. Read our full guide how tight should a waistcoat fit?.

Which colors work seasonally?

• Spring: light blue, beige, gray, soft green tones.
• Summer: light neutral colors and calm prints.
• Autumn: brown, olive, rust, burgundy, dark blue.
• Winter: dark gray, navy, brown, green and rich checks.

These are not rules. A light waistcoat can be strong in winter under a dark jacket and a burgundy waistcoat can work well in spring. Be sure to look at the entire outfit.

Formal or casual?

A formal waistcoat requires different combinations than a casual tweed, leather or vintage model. With a three-piece suit, the waistcoat matches the jacket and trousers. A loose waistcoat may differ more in color and texture.

If you wear a classic single-breasted waistcoat closed, the bottom button usually remains open. You can read the background in why do you leave the bottom button of a waistcoat open?.

Combining a vintage waistcoat throughout the year

Vintage waistcoats often have more character through color, check, buttons or cut. Let such a piece play the leading role and keep the rest quieter. A striking waistcoat does not have to be combined with a busy shirt, striking tie and statement jacket.

Waistcoats at EcoGents

In our collection second-hand and vintage waistcoats you will find a variety of models for formal, casual and vintage use. Because every piece is different, it pays to not only choose based on the size label, but also to look at the cut, length and the layer underneath.