Second-hand men's shirt: what should you pay attention to when purchasing?

With a second-hand shirt, pay particular attention to collar, cuffs, armpits, buttons, seams, discoloration and fit. These places quickly reveal how much a shirt has been worn. In addition, check whether the fabric is still strong and do not blindly rely on the size label: older and different brands can fit very differently.

A good second-hand shirt can last for years to come. Small signs of wear do not have to be a problem, but wear on collar and cuffs, permanent armpit discoloration or a distorted fit are more important to see in advance.

Also view our current collection second-hand and vintage shirts for men.

Why a second-hand shirt is interesting

Secondhand you will find a huge variety of collars, prints, fabrics and fits. Especially with vintage shirts, you will encounter details that are less common in modern collections: larger pointed collars, different cuffs, striking prints and wider cuts.

Because shirts are relatively light and easy to combine, they are also an accessible way to wear second-hand or vintage men's clothing.

1. Start at the collar

The collar is one of the first places where a worn shirt shows wear. Open it up and look at both the inside and outside.

Please note:

• thin or ragged edges;
• permanent discoloration on the inside;
• damaged collar points;
• a distorted or severely wrinkled interlining.

Some discoloration may sometimes disappear with washing, but heavy wear on the edge of the collar is usually permanent.

2. Check the cuffs

After the collar, cuffs are an important wear point. Pay particular attention to the edges and the area around the button.

If the fibers have become thin or the fabric is already fraying, the shirt is more worn than it seems at first glance. For French cuffs, also check the buttonholes for cufflinks.

3. Look closely at the armpits

Check both the outside and the inside. Look for discoloration, stains and weakened fabric.

Armpit discoloration cannot always be completely removed and aggressive treatment can actually damage the fabric. This is of course more noticeable with white and light shirts than with dark prints.

4. Check chest, stomach and back for stains

Keep the shirt in good light. Some grease or drink stains are barely visible on a hanger, but suddenly stand out from a different angle.

Also look under pockets, along the button band and at the bottom of the front. Small spots may be less noticeable in prints, but they do not automatically disappear.

5. Test all buttons and buttonholes

Check that all buttons are present and securely fastened. A missing button is usually easy to replace, especially if there is a spare button available.

More important are torn buttonholes or damaged fabric around the buttons. Also look at cuffs and any button-down buttons on the collar.

6. Check the seams

View shoulder seams, side seams, armpit seams and sleeve inserts. A loose stitching can usually be repaired; fabric that has torn next to the seam is more difficult.

With very thin or old fabrics, tension around the seams can indicate that the material is losing its strength.

7. Assess the material yourself

Feel if the fabric is still even and firm. With cotton, frequent wearing and washing can cause thin spots. For fine fabrics, check for rips or small holes.

With flannel you are looking at strong pilling or thinning elbows. With silk or viscose, pay extra attention to damage, because fine fabrics can be more sensitive.

8. Pay attention to shrinkage and deformation

A second-hand shirt has usually already been washed several times. This has an advantage: any initial shrinkage has often already happened.

However, a shirt can be washed incorrectly and become deformed as a result. Check whether the side seams are straight, the collar is symmetrical and the sleeves are approximately the same.

9. Don't blindly rely on the size label

Sizes vary greatly by brand, model and period. For example, a vintage size L can be narrower or much wider than a modern L.

Therefore, when purchasing online, compare the armpit-to-armpit size, back length and sleeve length with a shirt that fits well at home.

Also read slim fit, regular fit or loose fit shirt: what's the difference?.

10. Look at the collar shape and style

Not every older collar is out of style; some are actually interesting. Large pointed collars, button-down collars and narrower classic collars each give a different look.

Are you specifically looking for vintage? Then read too vintage 70s shirts: this is how you recognize and wear them.

Prints: check pattern and wearability

A strong print can make a shirt special, but also check whether the colors are still fresh and whether the pattern has not faded in places.

With striking prints, it is smart to think in advance what you will combine the shirt with. You can find more inspiration in print shirt men: this is how you combine prints.

Material: read the label if it is still there

Use the material label when present and legible. Cotton, linen, polyester, viscose and blends all behave differently.

Vintage shirts may have a label missing or illegible. Then it is better to be careful with definite material indications than to gamble on feeling.

Can a second-hand shirt still be adjusted?

A shirt can sometimes be taken in at the side seams or back. Shortening sleeves is also possible, depending on the cuffs and construction.

Much more difficult are a neck that is too tight, shoulders that are too narrow or sleeves that are too short. Therefore, preferably buy a shirt with a good enough neck, shoulders and sleeve length.

How do you know if a vintage shirt fits well?

Vintage does not have to be the same as modern slim fit. A 70s or 90s shirt can be deliberately roomier. Therefore, don't just look at how much fabric is left, but whether the proportion is correct and the shoulder seam is logical.

Also read wear a vintage shirt: this is how you combine it without dressing up.

Checklist when purchasing a second-hand shirt

• Collar edges are not seriously worn.
• Cuffs are intact and not frayed.
• No problematic armpit discoloration.
• No stubborn stains on chest, stomach or back.
• All buttons and buttonholes are in order.
• Seams are intact.
• Fabric has no thin spots, holes or serious damage.
• Shirt is not deformed by improper washing.
• Neck, shoulders and sleeves fit.
• Dimensions have been compared to a well-fitting shirt.

Second-hand shirts at EcoGents

At EcoGents you will find a wide collection second hand and vintage shirts, from calm business models and Oxford shirts to prints, flannel and distinctly vintage ones.

Custom-made shirts hang in De Herenkamer in Tilburg, so that you can compare different fits, collars and styles within your size.

Do you want to learn to assess more broadly? Then read too recognize quality in second-hand men's clothing.

Short answer: buy a second-hand shirt, especially in terms of collar, cuffs, armpits, fabric and fit. Buttons are easy to replace, but serious wear, permanent discoloration and incorrect shoulder or neck size are much more difficult to solve.