Why do you leave the bottom button of a waistcoat open?

With a classic single-breasted waistcoat you usually leave the bottom button open. It's such a small detail that makes a big difference to the look of an outfit. Yet the reason behind it is often stated too firmly. The well-known explanation about King Edward VII is plausible as part of the tradition, but not so well documented that you can say that he "invented" the rule with his own hands.

Where does the open bottom button come from?

The most popular explanation refers to the British King Edward VII. According to the well-known anecdote, he wore the bottom button of his waistcoat open and the habit was adopted by others. Clothing historians do comment on this: there are several explanations and also older examples.

It is therefore safest to see it as an established style agreement within classic men's fashion, not as a rule with one indisputable origin.

Why does it often look better?

The bottom of many classic waistcoats is sloping or in points down. Leaving the bottom button open allows the waistcoat to fall more naturally around your waist. Especially with a fitted model, this prevents extra tension and folds at the bottom.

An open bottom button also gives a little more space when you sit down. That's probably one of the reasons why the habit has practically stuck.

Does the bottom button always have to be open?

No. The agreement mainly applies to classic single-breasted waistcoats with a traditional button layout. Other models may be different:

• Double-breasted waistcoat: these are often worn differently and the bottom button may be part of the construction.
• Modern short models: some are designed to be worn completely closed.
• Waistcoats with different button position: always look at how the garment falls when you wear it.

The cut of the waistcoat therefore takes precedence over a style convention that once emerged for classic models.

How tight should a waistcoat fit?

A good waistcoat fits without the buttons pulling. It may follow your silhouette, but horizontal drawstrings around the buttons are usually a sign that it is too tight. At the same time, you don't want a lot of excess fabric hanging at the back or side seams.

The front should be long enough to cover your shirt at the waist. Especially with a formal combination, you don't want to see a strip of shirt between the waistcoat and trousers. Also read how tight a waistcoat should fit.

What do you wear under a waistcoat?

The classic combination is a shirt, possibly with a tie. For a less formal outfit, you can play with color, texture and print, but make sure the waistcoat still feels like a conscious layer in the outfit. A well-fitting shirt almost always works.

You can find more combinations in what do you wear under a waistcoat?.

Waistcoat with or without a jacket?

A waistcoat does not have to be exclusively part of a three-piece suit. A loose waistcoat over a shirt can be very effective, especially with tweed, checks or a striking vintage fabric. With a jacket over it, the look becomes more classic; without a jacket it becomes more informal.

Second-hand and vintage waistcoats at EcoGents

EcoGents has a large collection of second-hand and vintage waistcoats, from quiet plain ones to checks, tweed looks and bold prints. Because sizes and cuts vary by brand and period, it pays to actually try on rather than blindly rely on the size label.

Combine them with shirts, jackets and ties. And with the classic model? Then the bottom button usually remains open.