How tight can a jacket fit? This is how you recognize the right fit

How tight should a jacket be? The short answer: fitted, but never tense. A good jacket follows your body without the fabric pulling, the button being under tension or your freedom of movement disappearing. Especially with second-hand jackets, it is important to look beyond the size label, because sizes can vary considerably per brand and period.

Always start with the shoulders

The shoulders are the most important part of the fit. The shoulder line of the jacket should logically connect to your own shoulder. Too wide gives a collapsed or overhanging line; Too narrow causes your own shoulder to push against the sleeve head.

The shoulders in particular are difficult and expensive to have properly adjusted. That is why this is the first point we check when fitting. Sleeve length or waist can often be adjusted; an incorrect shoulder construction is much less easy.

How tight should it be around the chest and stomach?

Button the jacket as intended. With a classic two-button model, close the top button and leave the bottom one open. The front panels should then fall smoothly.

If you see clear horizontal drawstrings or a strong X-shape around the closed button, the jacket is usually too tight. If the front is far away from the body and there is a lot of excess fabric, then it is probably too roomy.

A jacket does not have to feel tight to look fitted. A good fit comes from the cut, not from tension on the fabric.

Do you have to be able to put a hand between the jacket and chest?

The well-known 'hand rule' can be a rough indication, but is not an exact measure. Physique, fabric thickness and construction differ too much. Rather, look at the overall picture: close the front cleanly, the button does not pull and you can breathe, sit and move normally?

The collar and back tell a lot

The collar of the jacket should fit neatly against the collar of your shirt and your neck. A noticeable gap could mean that the balance or size is wrong. Pleats directly under the collar can also indicate a fit problem.

The jacket should not fit tightly like a second skin at the back. You need some space to move around. At the same time, you don't want large horizontal or vertical folds that indicate that the jacket is too loose or incorrectly shaped.

How long should the sleeves be?

Sleeve length is partly a style choice. With a classic combination you usually see a small piece of shirt cuff under the jacket sleeve. It is more important that both sleeves fit the same and that the sleeve does not rest on your hand.

A slightly too long or short sleeve is often relatively easy to adjust, as long as there is sufficient fabric available. That makes sleeve length less decisive than the shoulders.

How long should a jacket be?

Traditionally, a jacket covers most of the seat. Modern jackets can be shorter, but an extremely short jacket can unsettle the proportions. Look at your overall silhouette: the jacket should be in balance with your upper body and legs.

You often see longer models with vintage jackets than with recent slim-fit jackets. That is not automatically 'too big'; it could simply be the cut of the period.

Can you move your arms freely?

A jacket is not a sports coat, so you shouldn't expect full freedom of movement like in a sweater. You must be able to sit normally, grab a glass and move your arms without everything becoming tight.

Too much tension under the armpits, in the back or in the upper arms is a sign that the model or size does not suit your build.

What can you still have altered?

A good tailor can make many improvements: shorten or lengthen sleeves, adjust the waist and sometimes adjust the back or sides. But not everything makes economic sense. With a second-hand jacket we therefore first look at the basics: shoulders, chest and overall balance must be good.

Vintage and modern jackets fit differently

A vintage size 50 may fit differently than a modern size 50. Older jackets are sometimes longer, wider at the chest or constructed differently at the shoulders. That is why actual dimensions and fit are more important than the number on the label.

Are you also unsure about the name? Then read what the difference is between a jacket and a blazer.

Checklist: when is a jacket good?

• The shoulders fit logically without sagging or pulling.
• The closed button is not under tension.
• The lapels lie quietly and do not pull open.
• The collar fits neatly with your neck and shirt.
• The sleeves are the same length and may show a small piece of cuff.
• The back looks calm, but offers enough room to move.
• The length suits your body proportions and the style of the jacket.

Second-hand jackets suit EcoGents

In our collection second-hand and vintage jackets you will find various cuts, sizes and periods. That is precisely why we sort by size in the store and advise mainly on actual fit.

Do you want to know what you can wear under a jacket? Then also read what do you wear under a jacket?. And for a more casual combination: can jeans be worn under a jacket?.