Can you wear a waistcoat open? When it works and when it doesn't

Can you wear a waistcoat open? Yes. An open waistcoat can work very well, especially with a casual outfit. But with a formal three-piece suit, the waistcoat should usually be closed. The difference is mainly in the occasion, the type of waistcoat and the rest of your outfit.

When can you wear a vest open?

An open waistcoat works best when worn as a loose layer rather than as part of a formal suit. Think of a tweed waistcoat, a checked vintage model or a casual waistcoat over a shirt.

Wearing it open makes the outfit looser and less dressy. This can be nice if you want some structure, but not the look of a full suit.

Open waistcoat with shirt

This is the easiest combination. Choose a shirt that fits well independently, because when the waistcoat is open you can see more of the front.

A plain one works for a printed or checked waistcoat shirt often the best. With a calm plain waistcoat you can use a vintage shirt or let print speak.

Open waistcoat with T-shirt or polo

For a casual waistcoat, a simple T-shirt can work, especially with more robust models in wool, denim look, leather or suede. A polo is a bit dressier and is a compromise between a T-shirt and a shirt.

With a formal suit vest, a T-shirt looks faster as if two styles don't quite belong together. So always look at the character of the waistcoat itself.

When is it better to wear a waistcoat closed?

For a three-piece suit, wedding or other formal occasion, the waistcoat should normally be closed. It then forms one whole with jacket and trousers.

Even if the waistcoat is highly fitted and clearly made as a costume part, the shape usually looks better when it is closed.

How many buttons do you leave open?

With a classic single-breasted waistcoat, the bottom button usually remains open. This also applies when the rest of the waistcoat is closed. We explain the background and exceptions in why do you leave the bottom button of a waistcoat open?.

If you leave the entire waistcoat open, then that rule is of course no longer relevant: all buttons are then undone.

Fit remains important, even when the waistcoat is open

An open waistcoat should not hang loosely on either side of the body. The shoulders should be flat and the length should be correct. Too big remains too big, even if you don't close the buttons.

Moreover, an open waistcoat cannot be used to hide one that is too small. If the buttons would only close with a lot of tension, the size is probably not right.

Also read about this how tight should a waistcoat fit?.

Open waistcoat under a jacket?

That is possible, but usually it is less logical. Under a jacket, a closed waistcoat appears calmer and more neat. An open waistcoat can slide under the jacket and interrupt the vertical line of the outfit.

If you wear the waistcoat without a jacket, you have much more freedom to leave it open.

Which waistcoats work best open?

These models in particular lend themselves well to an open look:

• tweed and checked waistcoats;
• casual wool models;
• leather and suede vests;
• vintage waistcoats with striking fabric or buttons;
• models that are clearly designed as a separate garment.

Shiny wedding waistcoats and formal suit waistcoats usually look stronger when worn closed.

What do you wear under an open waistcoat?

The layer below becomes extra important because you see more of it. A well-fitting shirt, polo or T-shirt therefore forms the basis. In our comprehensive guide what do you wear under a vest? you will find combinations for formal, casual and vintage.

Open or closed? A simple rule

The more formal the occasion, the more logical it is to wear the waistcoat closed. The looser and more casual the outfit, the easier it is to leave it open.

The most important thing remains that the outfit looks conscious. Open wearing should seem like a choice, not a solution to the wrong size.

Gilets at EcoGents

In our collection second hand and vintage waistcoats you will find both formal and casual models. Because each item fits differently, trying it on is the best way to see whether the vest is strongest when open or closed.