Spencer men's wear: this is how you combine a modern slipover

How do you wear a spencer as a man? The easiest way is to think of it as a midlayer: less formal than a waistcoat, lighter than a full sweater and ideal for adding character to a shirt. A spencer — also often called a slipover — works both classic and modern, depending on what you wear underneath and with it.

What is a spencer?

A spencer is a sleeveless knitted garment that you wear over a shirt, T-shirt or thin sweater. In English, the term sweater vest or slipover is often used.

The neck can be V-shaped, round or finished differently. It is precisely that neckline that largely determines what you can wear underneath.

Spencer with shirt

This is the classic combination. A white, light blue or striped shirt almost always works. With a pronounced spencer with a check or color, you prefer to keep the shirt calm.

With a plain spencer you can do more with one print shirt or vintage design.

Which collar works well?

A pointed collar, button-down or classic Kent collar works well under most V-neck spencers. Make sure that the collar remains neatly above the neck opening and does not disappear halfway under the knitting.

With a large vintage collar, a deeper V can be nice, because the shape gives more space.

Spencer with T-shirt

A spencer over a simple T-shirt immediately makes the outfit more informal. This works especially well with a more spacious or preppy spencer.

Preferably choose a plain T-shirt if the spencer itself already has a pattern or multiple colors.

Spencer with trousers

With neat trousers, a Spencer will quickly grow up and be well-groomed. Dark blue, gray, brown and cream are especially easy combinations.

A spencer with a cable structure or check provides more texture than a regular sweater.

Spencer with jeans

Jeans loosen up the combination. Dark blue or straight mid-blue jeans work well with both classic and vintage spencers.

With an Oxford shirt and loafers you get a preppy look; with a T-shirt and sneakers it becomes much more casual.

Spencer under a suit jacket

A thin spencer works well under one jacket, as long as there is enough room at the chest and armholes. A thick spencer can make the jacket too tight.

For a checked jacket, choose a quiet spencer. With a plain jacket you can add more pattern.

How tight should a spencer be?

A spencer may fit, but does not have to be tight around the body. The hem should fall smoothly and the armholes should not cut into the armpits.

A vintage model can deliberately be a bit wider or shorter. So look at the cut and not just the size label.

What length is good?

The hem should usually fall around the waist or slightly below. Too short can look uneasy above a shirt; too long can bunch up under a jacket or coat.

Proportions of vintage models may differ from modern knitwear. Passing therefore remains important.

Combine pattern

Argyle, diamonds, stripes and cable textures are common in spencers. It's easiest to combine patterns when they differ in scale.

For example, a large check in the spencer works well with a very fine stripe in the shirt. Two major competing patterns are trickier.

Which colors work easily?

• Dark blue: with white, light blue, gray and beige.
• Brown: with cream, blue, olive and rust.
• Gray: with white, blue, burgundy and black.
• Cream: with denim, brown, green and dark blue.

Vintage spencer without dressing up

Let one element play the leading role. A striking vintage spencer over a calm shirt and simple trousers usually has a stronger effect than a combination in which the tie, jacket and trousers are all busy.

Spencers at EcoGents

In our collection spencers and slipovers you will find plain, checked and distinctly vintage models. Because fit and neckline differ greatly, it is worth trying different models side by side.

Do you want to know how to choose the shirt underneath? Then read too combine a shirt with a jacket or suit.