What is the difference between wool, new wool and pure new wool?

Wool is a collective name. Virgin wool is wool that has been sheared directly from a living animal and has not previously been used in any other product. Pure new wool means that the garment or fabric consists exclusively of new new wool.

On second-hand labels you will also come across terms such as pure new wool, virgin wool, pure Schurwolle and laine vierge. These broadly refer to new, non-recycled wool.

What does 'wool' mean on a label?

Wool tells you that animal wool fibers have been used, but does not automatically say whether those fibers are new, recycled or mixed. Therefore, always look at the complete composition.

A label with only '100% wool' therefore says something about the composition, but not automatically about the origin of the fiber or the quality of the yarn. One 100% wool sweater can be much finer, softer or stronger than another.

What is virgin wool?

Virgin wool is new wool that has been sheared from a living animal. The fibers do not come from previously worn or processed woolen textiles.

The term therefore mainly says something about the origin of the fiber. He does not directly say how fine, soft or exclusive that wool is. To do this, you also have to look at breed, fiber thickness, processing and the final knit or fabric.

What does pure new wool mean?

Pure new wool means that the fiber composition consists entirely of new new wool. On older clothing you also see indications such as 'Pure New Wool' or 'Reine Schurwolle'.

In vintage men's clothing you come across these terms surprisingly often on sweaters, jackets and trousers. Older European labels in particular sometimes use different languages ​​or trade names, but the basic principle remains the same: new wool, not recycled from previous textiles.

What does virgin wool or pure new wool mean?

Virgin wool and pure new wool are used for new wool fibers that have not previously been processed into a textile product. In practice, these terms are close to what we call new wool or pure new wool in Dutch.

For older clothing, the precise terminology may differ per country or period. That is why we prefer to look at the entire material label rather than one individual word.

Is 100% wool the same as pure new wool?

No, not necessarily. 100% wool says that the garment consists entirely of wool, but does not automatically mean that the wool is new. Pure new wool adds that element of new, previously unused wool fibers.

For wearing comfort or longevity, 100% wool without that extra indication does not necessarily have to be worse.

Is pure new wool always better?

Not automatically. The quality also depends on fiber thickness, breed, yarn, weave or knitting and finishing. A high-quality wool blend can sometimes perform better than a mediocre 100% virgin wool fabric.

What about merino and lambswool?

Merino says something about the sheep breed; lamb's wool over the first shearing of a young sheep. So both can also be virgin wool.

Also read the difference between merino wool, lambswool and cashmere.

Why are wool blends used?

An addition of polyamide, polyester or other fibers may be intended for wear resistance, shape retention, price or ease of maintenance. A mix is ​​therefore not necessarily inferior.

For example, with trousers or jackets, a small addition of synthetic fiber can help prevent rapid wear. In knitwear, a mix can ensure shape retention or less vulnerability.

What do you look for second hand?

• check the material label;
• look for moth holes;
• look for pilling and thin spots;
• check whether wool is felted or shrunk;
• smell of musty damp odor;
• check neck, cuffs and seams.

How do you recognize felted wool?

Felted wool feels more compact, stiffer and denser than normal. The size may have shrunk significantly and the original knitting structure becomes less visible.

With a sweater you sometimes see that sleeves have become noticeably short or that the torso feels compact and almost felt-like. That is different from a sturdy, finely knitted garment that is closed in itself.

Which term is the most important?

For the buyer, the entire composition is more important than one marketing term. For example, check whether it says 100% wool, 80% wool/20% polyamide or 100% virgin wool.

Combine that information with what you feel and see: if the fabric is still supple, strong and even, that often says more about the actual wearing quality than one nice word on the label.

Woolen men's clothing at EcoGents

At EcoGents you will find woolen jackets, knitwear, quarter zips and waistcoats. We only list material where the label or other reliable information supports it.

Short answer: wool is the broad category, virgin wool is new shorn wool and pure virgin wool consists entirely of that new wool.