Second-hand waistcoat men: what should you pay attention to when purchasing?

With a second-hand waistcoat, you pay particular attention to fit, length, buttons, lining, fabric and the adjustment strap at the back. A good vest should fit nicely without pulling, cover the waistband of your pants and fall flat over your shirt. Minor signs of use are often not a problem; deformation, worn lining or torn buttonholes are more important.

Because vests have relatively little fabric, the fit and details are extra noticeable. A small difference in length or waist can therefore have more influence than with a jacket.

Also view our current collection second hand and vintage waistcoats for men.

Why a second-hand waistcoat is interesting

Second-hand you will find much more variety than in an average current collection: classic suit waistcoats, tweed, checks, wool mixes, corduroy, distinctly vintage models and sometimes older cuts that you hardly encounter new.

In addition, a waistcoat can easily change an outfit. With the same shirt and trousers, a different waistcoat can immediately make the combination more classic, more informal or more distinctive.

1. Start with the fit around the chest and waist

A waistcoat should fit, but not be too tight. When the buttons are under tension or the fabric between the buttons pulls out, the model is usually too small.

If there is a lot of space around the chest or waist, the vest will quickly look flimsy. The front should fall smoothly and flat.

Also read how tight should a waistcoat fit?.

2. Check the length

A classic waistcoat should be long enough to cover the waistband of the trousers when you are standing upright. If you always see a strip of shirt between the waistcoat and trousers, the waistcoat is often too short or the trousers are worn too low.

With vintage models the proportion may be different than with modern waistcoats. Therefore, do not just look at the size label, but especially at how the length fits your body.

3. Look at the shoulders and armholes

The shoulder parts should lie flat and not rise. The armholes should not be pinching, but neither should they be so wide that the shirt bulges through them restlessly.

With second-hand waistcoats you sometimes see that the shape around the armhole has stretched slightly due to years of wear. That doesn't always have to be a problem, but check it during fittings.

4. Check all buttons and buttonholes

A loose or missing button is usually easy to repair. More important is the condition of the buttonholes. Check to see if they are not torn or severely stretched.

Also check that all nodes are the same. Older waistcoats may have had a button replaced at some point. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it is something to know.

5. Examine the adjustment strap on the back

Many classic waistcoats have an adjustment strap with buckle at the back. Test whether it still works and whether the fabric around the attachment is intact.

A broken buckle can often be replaced, but torn fabric around the strap is more difficult. In addition, only use the waistband for minor corrections: a waistcoat that is much too roomy will not suddenly fit properly by pulling the back extremely tight.

6. Check the front and back

The front gets the most attention, but with second-hand waistcoats the back often tells at least as much about the condition.

Check for:

• wear around the adjustment strap;
• pull marks at the side seams;
• discolored or shiny spots;
• holes or thinned fabric;
• loose seams at shoulders and armholes.

7. Pay attention to the lining

With some waistcoats the back is made of lining fabric; others also have a separate inner lining. Pay particular attention to armpits, side seams, bottom edge and pockets.

A small loose seam can usually be repaired easily. Large worn areas or a back panel that has become completely thin mean more work.

8. Check the pockets

Waistcoat pockets are small, but take a surprising amount of strain. Check whether the bag entrances have not been torn out and carefully feel whether the bag lining is still intact.

Some waistcoats have pockets originally stitched shut. That is different from a damaged bag.

9. Look for wear and moth holes

For wool and tweed waistcoats, check carefully for small holes. Look not only at the front, but also under the arms, at the pockets and along the bottom edge.

A small superficial trace of use does not have to be a problem. Multiple moth holes or thin spots in the fabric are another matter.

10. Brand is less important than fit

A well-known brand can be interesting, but with a waistcoat, fit and fabric are often more important. An unknown vintage waistcoat that fits perfectly and is beautifully made can be much stronger than an expensive label that does not fit well.

So first look at construction, fit and condition and then look at the brand.

Can a tailor alter a waistcoat?

A waistcoat can often be slightly taken in at the side seams or back. Small repairs to buttons, lining and seams are usually also possible.

Much more difficult is a waistcoat that is too short or whose shoulders and armholes are fundamentally wrong. Therefore, it is best to buy a model with a correct length and top.

How do you wear a second-hand waistcoat?

A waistcoat can be worn classically with a shirt and trousers, but can also be worn more loosely with corduroy trousers, jeans or under a jacket. A tie is not required.

For combinations, read our guide combine waistcoat men and can a waistcoat be worn without a jacket?.

Should the bottom button be opened?

In a classic waistcoat, the bottom button is usually left open. This often helps the waistcoat to fit better when you sit and move.

You can read more about that in why do you leave the bottom button of a waistcoat open?.

Checklist when purchasing a second-hand waistcoat

• Chest and waist fit without pleats.
• Length covers the waistband of the pants.
• Shoulders and armholes lie calmly.
• All buttons and buttonholes are in order.
• Adjustment strap and buckle function.
• Back and lining are not worn.
• Bags are intact.
• No serious moth holes or thin spots.
• Any repairs are simple and logical.
• The model suits the way you want to wear it.

Second-hand waistcoats at EcoGents

At EcoGents you will find many different ones second hand and vintage waistcoats: plain, checked, tweed, classic and more pronounced. They are custom-made in Tilburg's Herenkamer, so you can try on different models directly next to each other.

Do you want to know what you are wearing underneath? Then read what do you wear under a vest?.

Short answer: buy a second-hand waistcoat mainly based on fit, length and condition. Then check buttons, buttonholes, back panel, adjustment strap, lining and pockets. If chest, shoulders and length are good, minor repairs can often be easily overlooked.