What is the difference between merino wool, lambswool and cashmere?

Merino wool, lambswool and cashmere look similar, but differ clearly in origin, softness, warmth, weight, durability and price. Merino wool is usually fine, supple and versatile. Lambswool is often fuller and more robust. Cashmere is exceptionally soft and light, but tends to be more susceptible to wear and tear and more expensive.

Which type of wool is best depends on what you are looking for. Merino can be very practical for daily use, lambswool is interesting for a warm classic sweater and for maximum softness and a high warmth-to-weight ratio you will quickly end up with cashmere.

What is merino wool?

Merino wool comes from merino sheep. This wool is known for relatively fine fibers, which means that high-quality merino can feel softer than coarser regular wool.

Merino is widely used for sweaters, cardigans, fine knitwear and clothing that is worn directly on or close to the skin. The fiber can absorb and release moisture well and therefore helps with temperature regulation.

Merino is not automatically scratch-free. The fiber thickness, processing and sensitivity of your skin all play a role.

What is lambswool?

Lambswool is wool from the first shearing of a young sheep. It is therefore not a separate breed of sheep, but a designation that says something about the age and shearing of the animal.

Lambswool is often soft and springy, but can feel fuller and firmer than fine merino wool. That's why you see it a lot in classic sweaters, cardigans and other warm knitwear.

How soft lambswool feels varies greatly by quality and fiber thickness. A fine lambswool sweater can be very comfortable, while a coarser one feels clearly woollier.

What is cashmere?

Cashmere is made from the fine undercoat of cashmere goats. These fibers are much finer than many traditional types of sheep's wool and therefore feel particularly soft and light.

Cashmere is best known for its high warmth in relation to its low weight. A thin cashmere sweater can therefore be surprisingly warm.

On the other hand, cashmere can be more sensitive to friction, pilling and wear. The quality also varies widely. Not every garment with cashmere on the label has the same fiber quality or lifespan.

Merino wool, lambswool and cashmere in one overview

Property	Merino wool	Lambswool	Cashmere
Origin	Merino sheep	First shearing of a young sheep	Fine undercoat of cashmere goat
Feeling	Fine and smooth	Soft to fuller/woolier	Very soft and light
Heat	Good insulating	Warm and more voluminous	High warmth-to-weight ratio
Weight	Light to medium	Often a bit fuller	Often very light
Wear resistance	Good with good quality	Often robust	Usually more sensitive
Pills	Can pills	Can pills	Can pill relatively quickly, depending on quality
Price new	Mid-range to premium	Often middle class	Usually more expensive

Which wool is the softest?

Cashmere usually feels the softest. The fibers are very fine and are therefore valued for luxury knitwear.

Merino wool can also be very soft, especially when fine fibers are used. Lambswool varies more: high-quality lambswool can be soft, but a coarser variety can feel more clearly like classic wool.

Which wool is the warmest?

This is less simple than choosing one winner. Warmth also depends on thickness, knitting, fit and air retained in the material.

Cashmere is known for its warmth and relatively light weight. However, in practice, a thick lambswool sweater can be warmer than an ultra-thin cashmere sweater. Therefore, always look at the entire garment, not just the fiber name.

Which wool breathes best?

Wool in general can absorb moisture and helps keep the body comfortable in varying temperatures. Merino is often chosen for light, breathable clothing because the fibers are fine and handle moisture well.

Lambswool and cashmere also remain natural animal fibers with temperature-regulating properties, but the construction and thickness of the sweater make a big difference in daily use.

Which wool wears the least?

For daily intensive use, a good merino wool or lambswool sweater is often more practical than very fine cashmere. Cashmere is softer, but that fine fiber can be more vulnerable to friction.

That does not mean that cashmere has to wear out quickly. High-quality fibres, a sturdy knitting structure and careful maintenance make a huge difference.

Why do wool sweaters pill?

Pilling occurs when loose fibers rise to the surface through friction and form small balls. This can happen with merino, lambswool and cashmere.

Pilling can become visible more quickly with very fine fibers and loose knits. Areas such as armpits, sides and forearms also experience more friction.

A little pilling does not automatically mean that a sweater is bad. With second-hand knitwear, we mainly look at whether it is superficial or whether the fabric has become really thin and worn.

What is better: 100% wool or a wool mix?

There is no universal answer here either. A sweater made of 100% merino, lambswool or cashmere can be beautiful, but a good wool blend can be stronger, more shape-retaining or more affordable.

For example, a small addition of synthetic fibers can improve wear resistance. A blend of merino and cashmere can combine softness and strength.

Therefore, don't just look at the percentage on the label, but also at how the fabric feels, how densely it is knitted and what condition the garment is in.

Merino for everyday use

If you are looking for one wool sweater that you want to wear often, merino is often a practical choice. The material is suitable for fine sweaters, cardigans and, for example, a dress quarter zip.

A thin merino sweater also works well under one jacket. Read for that too can a sweater be worn under a jacket?.

Lambswool for a classic warm sweater

Lambswool goes well with thicker, classic knitwear. The slightly fuller character combines nicely with tweed, ribbed trousers, shirts and winter jackets.

Because the wool often has more body than fine merino, a lambswool sweater often has a more traditional look.

Cashmere for lightness and softness

Cashmere is interesting when you want a lot of softness and warmth without having to wear a heavy sweater. A fine cashmere sweater can therefore be very pleasant under a coat or jacket.

Second-hand cashmere can also be attractive because the new price is often high. The condition is then extra important.

What should you look for with second-hand merino, lambswool and cashmere?

For second-hand woolen knitwear, we mainly check:

• Moth holes: especially look at armpits, collars, neck and bottom.
• Pilling: a little is normal; heavy felting or thin spots are more important.
• Stretching: check neckline, cuffs and bottom hem.
• Shrinkage: heavily felted or unusually compact wool may have been washed incorrectly.
• Stains: look at neck, cuffs and front.
• Seams: check shoulders, armpits and sleeve insert.
• Material label: check whether it really says merino, lambswool or cashmere and what percentage.
• Smell: a strong musty odor may indicate long-term damp storage.

How do you recognize shrunken wool?

Wool that has been washed too warm or too aggressively can felt. The material then feels more compact and stiffer, the structure becomes denser and the garment can become much smaller.

That is not the same as a sturdy knitting structure. Look at the ratio of neck, sleeves and torso and compare it with the size on the label where possible.

How do you maintain these types of wool?

Always follow the care label of the specific garment. Wool generally benefits little from frequent washing; regular ventilation is sufficient.

If it does need to be washed, use a suitable wool program or hand wash where the label allows, a wool detergent and low temperatures. Do not wring and preferably let it dry flat so that the sweater keeps its shape.

Cashmere usually deserves the most careful treatment. Keep all woolen knitwear clean and dry to give moths less of a chance.

Which type of wool do you choose?

Choose merino wool if you are looking for a versatile, relatively nice sweater for many different moments.

Choose lambswool if you like a warm, fuller classic sweater with more body.

Choose cashmere if softness, low weight and luxurious feel matter most to you and you are prepared to treat the garment more carefully.

Buy second-hand woolen knitwear at EcoGents

At EcoGents we constantly come across knitwear made from merino, lambswool, cashmere and all kinds of wool blends. We assess each piece individually for condition, fit and wearability and only list material when the label or other reliable information supports it.

In addition to sweaters, you will also find: quarter zips, waistcoats and jackets in which wool can play an important role.

Also read our guide vintage sweater men: this is how you choose, wear and maintain your knitwear.

Short answer: merino is fine, supple and versatile, lambswool is often fuller and more robust and cashmere is the softest and lightest but usually also the most fragile and pricey. The best choice depends on how often you wear the garment, how much warmth you are looking for and how much maintenance you are willing to pay for it.