Second-hand men's suit: this is how you choose a suit that really fits well

Choosing a second-hand suit for men starts with fit. Brand, age and fabric are interesting, but a suit only works when the jacket and trousers fit well together. Shoulders, chest, waist, crotch and trouser length in particular determine whether a second-hand suit is a strong purchase.

A costume is a set

With a suit, the jacket and trousers belong together in the same fabric and color. Therefore, always check whether both parts are present and whether color and wear are still even.

A jacket that has been worn much more often than the trousers — or vice versa — may have visibly aged differently.

Start at the shoulders of the jacket

The shoulder line is the most difficult part to change. The shoulders should fit logically without sagging or tightening.

A sleeve that is too long can often be adjusted. Wrong shoulders are much less simple and can make a suit economically unattractive.

How should the jacket fit at the chest and waist?

Close the right button and look at the front pieces. Strong horizontal tension or a clear X-shape around the knot usually indicates too little space.

The jacket does not have to be tight to look fitted. Good cut gives shape without tension.

Also read about this how tight can a jacket fit?.

Check lapels and collar

The lapels should lie quietly. The collar of the jacket should fit neatly with the neck and shirt collar. Large gaps or folds may indicate a fit problem.

The trousers are just as important

Check waist, seat, crotch, thigh and leg. A perfect jacket with trousers that cannot be altered properly still makes the set unusable.

Vintage suits often have a higher waist and roomier pants than modern suits. That is not automatically old-fashioned; it's part of the cut.

Also read how to choose second-hand trousers.

How long should the trousers be?

That depends on style and shoe. Classic trousers can lightly touch the shoe; a more modern model may be shorter. It is important that the pipe does not pile up heavily and that the front and back fall smoothly.

What can a tailor adjust?

Sleeves, pant length and waist are often relatively common adjustments. The jacket can also sometimes be taken in at the waist or back.

But not everything is wise to change. Shoulders, major balance problems and incorrect cross construction are more complex. Therefore, buy a suit with a good base.

Check the lining

On the jacket, look at the armpits, inside pockets, center back and sleeve lining. For the trousers, check the pockets and crotch.

A small open seam can often be repaired; large worn areas can mean a lot more work.

Material: look at the label

Many suits are made of wool or wool blend, but cotton, linen and synthetic blends are also available. Feeling the outside is not enough to determine the exact material.

At EcoGents we only mention material when the label or other reliable information confirms this.

Old is not automatically better

Vintage suits can be beautifully constructed, but age is no guarantee of quality. Even in the past, simple mass products and high-quality tailoring coexisted.

Look at fabric, seams, lining, buttons, fit and condition instead of assuming that 'everything was better back in the day'.

Double-row or single-row?

A single-breasted suit is versatile and easy to combine. A double-breasted suit gives a more pronounced classic silhouette and requires extra attention to the bust and waist fit.

Both can be worn in a modern way; it's about the cut and proportions.

Which color is the most versatile?

Dark blue and medium gray are simple for work, wedding and dinner. Brown, checks and lighter shades have more character and can be interesting if you already have a basic suit.

Secondhand suit for a wedding

A second-hand suit is great for a wedding, as long as it fits the dress code. Add a good shirt, tie or waistcoat and have the fit refined by a tailor if necessary.

Check out our ties and waistcoats for combinations.

Maintenance after purchase

Always follow the care label. A complete costume consists of multiple layers and materials and does not automatically belong in the washing machine because the outer fabric is wool or cotton.

Read our guide vintage suit and jacket maintained.

Second-hand costumes at EcoGents

View our collection second hand and vintage costumes. In the store you can try on your jacket and trousers as a complete set and immediately assess whether the basics are correct.