Harris Tweed jacket: what makes it special and how do you wear it?

What makes a Harris Tweed jacket special? The answer is not just in the appearance of the fabric. Harris Tweed is legally defined: the tweed must be hand-woven by islanders in their own homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished there and made from pure new wool dyed and spun there. This origin and production method make Harris Tweed different from regular tweed.

What exactly is Harris Tweed?

Harris Tweed is not a general name for coarse woolen fabric. Only tweed that meets the legal definition under the Harris Tweed Act 1993 may be sold as Harris Tweed. Production is therefore subject to strict rules.

The fabric is made from 100% pure new wool. The yarn is dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides, before the fabric is handwoven at home by local weavers. The fabric is then also finished and checked in the Outer Hebrides.

The Orb quality mark: what do you look for?

The best-known recognition is the Orb Certification Mark. This quality mark is used on genuine Harris Tweed fabric that meets legal requirements. An original Harris Tweed label is therefore important information for a second-hand jacket.

But a label does not automatically tell you how old a garment is. The Harris Tweed Authority itself indicates that it cannot usually provide an exact historical date or origin of the garment based on a jacket or label. For age, you also look at manufacturer, inner labels, cut, finish and other characteristics.

Not every tweed is Harris Tweed

Tweed is a collective name for a type of woven fabric. There are many good tweeds from Scotland, England, Ireland and other countries, but only fabric that meets official requirements can be called Harris Tweed.

That is why at EcoGents we only call a jacket Harris Tweed if the label or other reliable information confirms this. A coarse check or wool look is not enough.

Why does Harris Tweed work so well as a jacket?

The fabric has a lot of texture and often multiple color nuances in one weave. This means that a Harris Tweed jacket easily combines with plain trousers, denim, rib and classic shirts. Even a calm herringbone or diamond pattern often has more depth than a smooth business jacket.

That makes Harris Tweed especially strong as a loose jacket: it does not have to be paired with matching trousers to look complete.

How do you wear a Harris Tweed jacket casually?

One of the easiest combinations is Harris Tweed with jeans. Choose a calm pair of jeans and let the texture of the jacket do the work. You can wear it with an Oxford shirt, chambray, plain shirt or fine sweater.

For more explanation, read can jeans be worn under a jacket?.

Harris Tweed with shirt and tie

If you want to wear it more neatly, combine it with a plain or finely striped shirt. A woolen, matte or vintage tie often matches the texture of tweed more naturally than a very shiny tie.

Brown, green, burgundy, cream, gray and dark blue often match the colors found in tweed. With a checked jacket, use one color from the check in a shirt or tie.

Harris Tweed with a waistcoat

A waistcoat can be a strong extra layer, especially in autumn and winter. For a bold Harris Tweed jacket, choose a calmer waistcoat. With a plain or subtle herringbone model you can add more pattern.

How does a Harris Tweed jacket fit properly?

The rules for fit are the same as for other jackets. Start with the shoulders: they should fit logically without sagging or tightening. The closed button should not be under tension and the lapels should lie quietly.

Because older Harris Tweed jackets are often cut differently than modern slim-fit jackets, you should not be too quick to conclude that a longer or roomier model is 'too big'. Look at the proportions of the specific jacket.

Read our comprehensive guide how tight should a suit jacket fit?.

Is Harris Tweed only for autumn and winter?

Harris Tweed is often associated with colder months, and many suit jackets made from this fabric are quite sturdy indeed. However, weight and construction differ per jacket. A lighter unlined model can be worn longer throughout the year than a heavily lined winter jacket.

So don't just look at the name of the fabric, but at the specific garment.

What should you look for in a second-hand Harris Tweed suit jacket?

• Orb label: check whether the fabric is marked as genuine Harris Tweed.
• Shoulders and fit: more important than the size number.
• Lining: look for wear on armpits, inside pockets and hem.
• Elbow and cuffs: these are places where older jackets tend to wear out more quickly.
• Moth holes: check wool carefully, especially on vintage ones.
• Buttons and seams: check that everything is complete and sturdy is.

How do you know if a vintage copy is really good?

The Harris Tweed brand says something about the fabric, not automatically about the quality of each individual jacket. The maker of the jacket, its construction, lining, cut and condition remain important. A good fabric label does not suddenly make a poorly fitting or heavily damaged jacket a good buy.

Therefore also read how to recognize quality in second-hand men's clothing.

Harris Tweed at EcoGents

At EcoGents we specifically look for interesting tweed jackets and we have a separate collection Harris Tweed. With each item we look at label, fit, condition and wearability. We only mention material or dating when there is sufficient evidence.

Are you unsure whether you have a blazer, jacket or suit jacket in your hands? Also read: jacket or blazer: what's the difference?.