Second-hand jacket men: how to choose a good one

With a second-hand jacket, pay particular attention to shoulders, chest, length, lining and wear. The shoulders are the most important, because they are the most difficult and often the most expensive to repair. Sleeve length and waist are usually easier to adjust. Only then look at brand, material and price.

Sizes, cuts and ages vary greatly, especially when it comes to second-hand clothing. A size 50 from one brand may fit completely differently than a size 50 from another brand. That is why trying on or measuring is much more important than blindly trusting the label.

Also view our current collection second-hand and vintage jackets for men.

Why a second-hand jacket can be interesting

Secondhand you will find much more variation in fabric, check, lapels, length and construction than if you only look at one current collection. This makes it easier to find a jacket that really suits your style.

You will also come across older models with different proportions than modern slim-fit jackets. Sometimes longer, sometimes wider, sometimes with a more pronounced shoulder or lapel. That doesn't have to be a disadvantage: it can actually provide more character.

1. Always start with the shoulders

The shoulders are the most important part of the fit. The shoulder line of the jacket should logically connect to your own shoulder. Too wide gives a collapsed image; Too narrow can make pulling and moving uncomfortable.

A sleeve can often be adjusted. Changing shoulders is much more difficult. That's why we always start there when trying on things.

Read also how tight should a jacket fit?.

2. Check chest and button position

Close the jacket as intended. With a classic model with two buttons, close the top one and leave the bottom one open. The fabric around the button should remain calm.

Strong horizontal drawstrings or a clear X-shape are usually a sign that the jacket is too tight. If the front is far away from your body, the model may be too wide.

3. Look at collar and lapel

The collar should fit neatly against the neck. If it stands clearly away from your neck or pulls up strangely, this could indicate a fit problem that is more difficult to correct.

Also look at the lapels. They should lie quietly and not open or wave. Vintage jackets may have lapels wider than modern models; that's a style feature, not a bug.

Also pay attention to wear or shine along the lapel edge and collar. There you can often quickly see how much a jacket has been worn.

4. How long should a jacket be?

The length depends on style and period. Classic and older jackets are often longer than recent fashion jackets. That is not automatically wrong.

Look at the ratio between upper body and legs. A jacket must look balanced. In a classic silhouette, it usually covers a large part of the buttocks.

5. Check buttons and buttonholes

For second-hand jackets, it is worth taking a look at all the buttons. Are they complete? Are they firmly attached? Have cufflinks been replaced by different ones?

Also check the buttonholes. Stretched, torn or heavily worn buttonholes are more difficult to repair neatly than a loose button.

A missing regular button does not necessarily have to be a reason to leave a good jacket hanging; it is often easy to replace.

6. Pay attention to the lining

With second-hand jackets, the inside often tells more than the outside. Be sure to check:

• armpits;
• inside pockets;
• center back;
• bottom of the lining;
• sleeve lining at the cuffs.

A nice exterior with a worn or torn lining can still mean extra work. Small loose seams are different from a lining that is thin or worn in several places.

7. Check the fabric for wear

Look closely at elbows, cuffs, collar, shoulders and pocket edges. With wool jackets, also check for small holes. Shiny spots can be caused by prolonged friction.

A little trace of use does not have to be a problem, but structural wear must be recognized in advance. Also note discoloration between shoulders, sleeves and torso.

8. Brand and material: useful, but not decisive

A strong brand can be interesting, but does not automatically mean that every jacket is well built or well fitting. The same goes for materials. Wool, cotton, linen and blends can all work well, depending on the jacket.

An unknown brand with good fabric, strong construction and excellent fit can be a much better buy than a well-known label that fits poorly.

At EcoGents we only mention material when the label or other reliable information confirms it.

9. Vintage sizing may fit differently

A size 50 from one brand may fit completely differently than a size 50 from another brand. With vintage, that difference is sometimes even greater.

That is why trying on or measuring is more important than blindly relying on the size label. Armpit width, back length and sleeve length provide much more support.

What else can a tailor adjust?

A second-hand jacket does not have to fit perfectly right away. Some adjustments are relatively normal, others are more complicated.

• Shortening or lengthening sleeves: often possible, depending on buttons and available fabric.
• Taking in the waist: often quite possible.
• Slightly adjusting the back: often possible.
• Shoulders narrower or making it wider: technically possible, but complex and often relatively expensive.
• Extending the jacket considerably: usually hardly possible.
• Making the chest considerably wider: possible to a limited extent and depending on the available seam allowance.

A good rule of thumb: buy a jacket with shoulders and base length that are already correct. Small adjustments afterwards are much more realistic.

Jacket or blazer?

The terms are often used interchangeably. A blazer is traditionally meant as a separate jacket, while a jacket is more widely used in Dutch for dress jackets.

Do you want to know exactly how that works? Read jacket or blazer: what's the difference?.

How do you wear a second-hand jacket casually?

A loose jacket often works great with jeans. Tweed, checks, structured fabrics and softer jackets in particular combine easily with denim.

A formal smooth suit jacket can be more difficult to become casual. Therefore, also read can jeans be worn under a jacket?.

What do you wear under a jacket?

A shirt remains the classic, but a polo, T-shirt, fine sweater, turtleneck or quarter-zip can work just as well. The formality of the layer underneath must match the jacket.

More examples can be found in what do you wear under a jacket?, can a polo be worn under a jacket? and can a sweater be worn under a jacket?.

When do you choose tweed?

Tweed immediately gives more texture and works strongly in autumn and winter. For genuine Harris Tweed, the official Orb label is important. Not every coarse wool fabric is Harris Tweed.

Read our guide Harris Tweed jacket: what makes it special and how do you wear it?.

Checklist for a second-hand jacket

• Shoulders fit well.
• Collar lies neatly against the neck.
• Lapels lie quietly.
• The button is not under tension.
• Buttons and buttonholes are in order.
• Lining is intact.
• No serious wear at elbows, collar and cuffs.
• No moth holes or structural damage.
• Sleeve length and overall length make sense for your body.
• The jacket fits what you want to wear with it.
• Any adjustments are realistic and affordable.

Second-hand jackets at EcoGents

At EcoGents you will find a wide collection of second-hand and vintage jackets, from quiet business models to tweed, checks and outspoken vintage ones.

Hundreds of jackets are clearly displayed in the Herenkamer of Tilburg. to size, so you can try different cuts right next to each other. Where possible, we also list relevant dimensions online, so that you can better compare with a jacket that already fits you well.

Do you want to learn to look at quality more broadly? Also read recognizing quality in second-hand men's clothing.

Short answer: buy a second-hand jacket, especially on shoulders, fit and condition. Brand and material are interesting, but a well-fitting jacket with intact fabric and lining is ultimately more important than the label.